My dearest ‘fiestas’: San Pedro & San Marcial
Traditions close to one’s heart can hardly be put in writing. So many words come to my mind when I think of June 30th: passion, pride, emotion, memories. This day is by far my favorite day of the year, the one we wait for all year long in my hometown of Irún.
Every June 30th is marked in the calendars and hearts of every inhabitant from Irún.
On this day, we celebrate our patron saint, San Marcial.
In this blog post I’ll explain what the history behind it is as well as what the key words and dates you should be aware of are.
History behind the tradition of San Marcial
The march-past that is celebrated in Irún every June 30th commemorates the victory of the Irún troops over the French during the early hours of June 30, 1522. The battle, which took place in the Peña de Aldabe in Irún, was part of a series of French offensives whose objective was to control the border area of Bidasoa.
This year the bicentennial of the second battle of San Marcial was also celebrated, which took place on August 31, 1813, when the Spanish–Portuguese–British allied army faced the Napoleonic troops.
If you would like to know more about this historic tradition, you can head to the official website of the Alarde.
Key words to know for San Marcial
There are certain words you need to know when celebrating San Marcial in Irún.
- Compañía: the term refers to a military company. Pretty much every neighborhood in Irún has its own company, with a total of 19 companies in town. Most of them are infantry companies, with some ‘special’ ones including Tamborrada (playing the drums), Banda (the Music Band), Caballería (cavalry) and Artillería (artillery). All members of the infantry companies are dressed in red, black and white. The companies are typically made up of a captain, a lieutenant, a sub-lieutenant, two sergeants and three corporals in addition to the band of flutes (‘txilibitos‘) and drums together with the soldiers. Finally, every company elects its own ‘cantinera‘ during the month of May.
- Cantinera: she’s the main (and only feminine) figure in every company. Many young girls dream of becoming their neighborhood’s cantinera but very little make it since there is strong competition. Tipically, there had only been one Alarde, the traditional one, meaning the only women who paraded were the cantineras. Starting in 1996 though, women increasingly demanded representation in the Alarde. This issue became very controversial (and still is). After heavy opposition, their demand gave birth to a second Alarde called ‘Alarde Mixto‘, in which both men and women parade.
- Ensayo (rehearsal): although the big day is June 30th, preparations begin weeks earlier. In May, all cantineras are elected by their respective companies. During the following month, they’ll be happily running from one place to another giving interviews, buying new clothes for their various rehearsals and trying their make up and San Marcial outfits in order for everything to run smoothly on June 30th. Likewise, companies start rehearsing and marching through their neighborhoods around June 20.
- Alarde: this term refers to the military parade that takes place on June 30th, both in the morning and in the afternoon.
- Diana: this song (known as Diana de Villarrobledo) is played every June 30th in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento (Town Hall square) at 6am by the Music Band and the Tamborrada (drummers). Many people gather here with their family and friends in order to listen to the music and then pick a spot for the Arrancada. If you’d like to know more about the music in San Marcial, click here.
- Arrancada: this moment marks the beginning of the Alarde from the Plaza de Urdanibia in Irún around 7.40am.
Key dates
June 28
On this day, the elected cantineras are officilally presented at a formal and emotional ceremony in the city center. Likewise, friends gather for dinner to celebrate the upcoming big day and party until late at night.
June 29, San Pedro
San Pedro is the prelude of San Marcial, which happens the day after. In the afternoon of June 29, the Cavalry company lead by the Alarde General inspects the troops. During this military ceremony known as Revista, they go on horseback through the various neighborhoods’ companies in Irún. This symbolizes that everyone is ready for the “battle” the next day.
That same night, the Antorcheras parade takes place. This act commemorates the night before the battle of June 30, 1522, when the women and children of Irún walked with burning axes and simulated the noise of horses’ hooves to make the enemy French troops believe that the Spanish soldiers were in the city instead of advancing towards their position in Peña de Aldabe.
June 30, San Marcial
After waiting for so many weeks and months, June 30th is finally here. It is a LONG day full of emotions and it starts really early in the morning.
Alborada (4am)
You read right. Celebrations start at 4am and the first San Marcial song that is played in various locations throughout Irún is the Alborada.
Diana (6am)
The instrumental song Diana de Villarrobledo is played every June 30th in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento (Town Hall square) by the Music Band and the Tamborrada (drummers). Many people gather here with their family and friends in order to listen to the music and jump altogether. Paths then separate: the boys join their companies, while the women go take a seat on the street and have breakfast while they wait for the military parade.
In the meantime, cantineras are ready to go and picked up by their respective company before heading to Plaza de Urdanibia. Cantineras are also responsible for providing breakfast (and a light dinner later in the evening) to their entire company.
Arrancada & Alarde
The Arrancada marks the beginning of the Alarde from the Plaza de Urdanibia in Irún around 7.40am. After the sound of the cornet, the Hacheros (axemen) open the parade by walking up the Cuesta de San Marcial on their way to the Town Hall. The whole town breaks out in applause and cheers. Once the 19 companies have followed, they all wait in the Townhall Square until the General joins them and inspects the troops. The Irún flag, carried by the Bidasoa company, is then incorporated, and three discharges are fired. After that, the Alarde continues towards the Juncal Church, where the discharges are repeated. Later on, the companies resume their parade through the streets of Irún and set off for Monte San Marcial, the hill where the hermitage of the same name is located. Up there, there is an offering to the patron saint and a campaign mass is celebrated. People snack and dance before heading back to Irún for a family lunch (and if you’re lucky, take a nap).
Alarde in the afternoon
On June 30th in the afternoon, the companies gather again and march through a similar path. The most emotional part is when the troops go down Calle Mayor, which is the last section of the parade just before breaking ranks in the Townhall Square. After that, each company returns to its neighborhood.
A company plays the drums in Calle Mayor 
My highlight of San Marcial: troops descending Calle Mayor
As you might imagine, celebrations continue when night falls. They actually do so until dawn. The fun happens mostly in the Arkupes, the arches below the Town Hall, where musicians, soldiers and anyone who wants to join play, sing and dance hoping that June 30th will never end.
At 6am in the morning on July 1st, people who are left play the “reDiana”, a replica of the Diana played the day before. After a memorable day, they all start going home little by little, already thinking about the fiestas next year.
Gora Irún, gora San Marcial!
For more information about San Marcial and the Alarde, you can check the following:
I hope you enjoyed this post about the traditions in my hometown. Feel free to leave your comments below!
