The holy city of Lalibela, located in the northern part of Ethiopia, treasures a series of ancient rock-hewn churches that are considered a UNESCO World Heritage site. Thanks to this travel guide, you will learn what to see and do in Lalibela, where to eat and stay, as well as a few travel tips to help you plan your adventure. At the end of this post, you will also find a map to easily pinpoint all the locations of this fascinating Ethiopian town.

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Disclaimers:

• I visited Ethiopia, including the city of Lalibela, with a girlfriend during the months of March and April 2023. This post features the latest information available to this date.
• Please note that this post includes some affiliate links. This means that, at no additional cost for you, I earn a commission if you make a purchase. In case you have any question about the companies advertised here or my status as an affiliate, please do not hesitate to contact me.
• You can find my Ethiopian stories and adventures under these folders on Instagram (Ethiopia, Ethiopia II, Ethiopia III).

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Throughout the trip, I used this Ethiopia & Djibouti guidebook by Lonely Planet to plan our stay and make the most out of it. I hope you’ll find it helpful too!

Our 3-day Lalibela itinerary

After visiting Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, we headed north to Lalibela. Considered one of the holiest cities in the country (and in the continent), this is what our 3-day itinerary looked like:

• Day 1: arrival to the Lalibela Airport, drive to Lalibela, lunch at the hotel (Sora Lodge Lalibela), visit of the ‘museum’ followed by the northwestern group of rock-cut churches (Bet Medhane Alem, Bet Maryam, Bet Giyorgis), sunset drinks at Ben Abeba and dinner at the hotel.
• Day 2: breakfast at the hotel, hike to Mount Abuna Yosef, sandwich lunch on top of the plateau, return to Lalibela, shopping, cooking class with Sisko followed by dinner at her Unique Restaurant, and drinks at Torpido (Askalech) Tej House.
• Day 3: shopping, visit the kindergarten at St Lalibela Monastery Kirworna Academy as well as the southeastern group of rock-hewn churches (Bet Gabriel-Rufael, Bet Merkorios, Bet Amanuel, Bet Abba Libanos) and the St. Neakuto Leab Monastery, before flying back to Addis Ababa.

Browse my Ethiopia destination page for more content about this fascinating country!

Ethiopia itinerary in 2 weeks & travel tips

Ethiopia trip highlights: my top 7 experiences

Exploring southern Ethiopia: ethnic tribes of the Omo Valley & safaris in national parks

What to do in Addis Ababa, the bustling capital of Ethiopia

What to see and do in Lalibela

Located at 2630 meters above sea level in the northern Amhara region, Lalibela (sometimes also spelled as Lalibella) is a minor city in terms of size with a population of barely 11.000 as of 2024. However, it is considered one of the most sacred and holiest cities not only in Ethiopia, but also in Africa.

The main attraction in Lalibela are its famous rock-hewn monolithic churches, which are impressive stone constructions built in the 12th and 13th centuries. But in addition to those marvelous structures, visitors will also find ancient monasteries, breathtaking mountains and other activities worth doing during their stay.

☦️ Explore the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, a UNESCO World Heritage site

Historic background

According to historians, the famous rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, eleven in total, were built during the reign of King Lalibela in the 12th and 13th centuries. That’s why this Ethiopian city is named after him.

Legend has it that King Lalibela was poisoned and taken to heaven by angels, where he was shown a city with churches carved into the rock. Then God himself ordered him to return to Earth and build a new Jerusalem recreating what he had seen in his dreams. To this day, locals think that the eleven churches were built in just 23 years thanks to divine support.

Believe it or not, the legendary churches of Lalibela are a true architectural wonder and a must-see in the country. As a matter of fact, they were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1978, and some people even consider them the Eighth Wonder of the World.

Excavated completely in the rock and built underground for defensive reasons, these fascinating churches are a major pilgrimage site for Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, who flock here especially to mark religious celebrations such as Leddet or Genna (on January 7th; it’s the equivalent of Ethiopian Christmas), Timkat (on January 19th), or Fasika (Orthodox Easter). Imagine the captivating sight of hundreds of worshippers dressed in white clothes gathered here while praying and chanting in front of these colossal buildings! However, if you don’t happen to be there during those days, any mass on Sunday early in the morning would do.

Located in an area of 15 hectares, the extraordinary rock-hewn monolithic churches in Lalibela are immense and artistically refined thanks to their superb paintings, carved bas-reliefs and colored frescoes. Unfortunately, some of the constructions are in critical condition and their integrity is at risk. That is why you’ll see some churches covered by a protective shelter.

When visiting these UNESCO churches, bear in mind that they are places of worship. Hence, show respect and ask for permission if you’d like to take pictures with people in them, particularly priests. Also, note that you might be asked to take off your shoes when entering these underground churches. They tend to be rather dark inside, so keeping a torchlight handy is a good idea. Last but not least, some of the churches are connected by a myriad of narrow tunnels. Beware if you’re a claustrophobic person!

For your ease of reference, the eleven rock-hewn churches of Lalibela are typically categorized in two groups depending on their location northwest or southeast of the Jordan river. Each cluster comprises five churches each, while the eleventh church (Bete Giyorgis) is isolated from the others. They are all listed below in alphabetical order:

• Bete Abba Libanos
• Bete Amanuel
• Bete Danaghel
• Bete Gabriel-Rufael
• Bete Giyorgis
• Bete Golgotha Mikael
• Biete Lehem
• Bete Maryam
• Bete Medhane Alem
• Bete Merkorios
• Bete Meskel

Note that ‘bete‘ means house in Amharic and it can also be spelled as ‘bet‘ or ‘biete‘.

During our stay in Lalibela, we got the chance to visit seven out of the eleven churches in two days.

Let’s now learn about all these fabulous Lalibela churches in more detail!

Bete Giyorgis

Also spelled as Biete Ghiorgis or Bet Giyorgis, this is the House of St. George. This Orthodox temple is the eleventh church within the Lalibela complex, and is isolated from the rest although connected by a system of trenches.

This cross-shaped temple is the most iconic one of the entire UNESCO World Heritage site. And it is actually the main picture featured on this post! 🙂

Carved in a 30-meter deep trench and built on three floors, Bete Giyorgis is exceptionally well preserved. When visiting inside the church, pay attention to the narrow windows, the large crosses on the ceiling and a 16th century painting depicting Saint George killing a dragon.

Around Bete Giyorgis, you may also notice various cavities that were used as tombs.

Northwestern group of Lalibela churches

Located northwest of the Jordan river, this cluster comprises five out of the eleven Lalibela churches. These are also the largest and most impressive ones of the UNESCO World Heritage site in terms of artistic features.

• Biete Denagel (House of Virgins; also spelled as Bete Danaghel): we didn’t visit this one, but this is a primitive chapel excavated in the south wall of the patio of Bete Maryam.
• Biete Golgotha Mikael (House of Golgotha Mikael; also referred to as Bet Debre Sina): even though we didn’t visit this one, these twin temples are connected to Bete Maryam by a trench first leading to Bet Mikael and then to Bet Golgotha, which is forbidden to women. The latter is known for housing some of the best early examples of Ethiopian Christian art, including sculptures of the twelve apostles or the supposed tomb of King Lalibela. Finally, Bet Uraiel lies next to a trench facing the west facade of Bet Golgotha.
• Biete Mariam (House of Mary; also spelled as Bet Maryam or Bete Mariam): according to popular belief, this was the first church to be built by King Lalibela and is hence the most popular among pilgrims. It is connected to Bet Medhane Alem by a tunnel and is the only church in the complex featuring porches extending off it.
• Biete Maskal (House of the Cross; also spelled as Bet Meskel): although we didn’t visit this one, this small chapel was excavated in the north wall of the patio of Bete Maryam.
• Biete Medhani Alem (House of the Savior of the World; also spelled as Bet Medhane Alem or Bete Medhane Alem): this temple is the largest monolithic rock-hewn church in the world and is simply breathtaking due to its height and the enormous columns surrounding it. Resembling a temple from Greece, look for three empty tombs in a corner, which were symbolically built to accommodate Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. Bet Medhane Alem is home to the Lalibela Cross, which many Orthodox worshippers revere.

Southeastern group of rock-hewn churches in Lalibela

Located southeast of the Jordan river, this cluster comprises five more rock-hewn churches. Although they are smaller than the ones in the northwestern group, they feature beautifully sculpted facades.

• Biete Abba Libanos (House of Abbot Libanos; also spelled as Bete Abalibanus or Bet Abba Libanos): legend has it that this church was built by King Lalibela’s wife, Meskel Kebra, in a single night. Excavated in a rock wall, its roof and floor remain attached to it. Even though the church looks big from the outside, it´s rather small inside.
• Biete Amanuel (House of Emmanuel; also spelled as Bete Emmanuel or Bet Amanuel): this independent, monolithic church is the most exquisitely sculpted of the complex and is thought to have possibly been the chapel for the royal family in Lalibela. It replicates the style of the buildings of Aksum, in the north of the country. An underground tunnel connects this temple with Bet Merkorios.
• Biete Gabriel Raphael (House of Gabriel Raphael; also spelled as Bet Gabriel-Rufael): historians think that this may have been a royal residence back in the 7th century. Once you cross the walkway over a trench, you will be able to enter this double church. First, you will access Bet Gabriel and then Bet Rufael.
• Biete Lehem (House of Holy Bread): we didn’t get to visit this one.
• Biete Qeddus Mercoreus (House of St. Mercurius; also spelled as Bete Mercurus, Bet Merkorios or Biete Mercoreos): as in the case of Bet Gabriel-Rufael, it is believed that this church may have formerly been a royal residence.

⛪ Visit the mystical churches and monasteries in the rural area around Lalibela

As a holy city and a popular destination among Ethiopian Orthodox pilgrims, the rural area around Lalibela houses numerous religious sites such as churches and monasteries in addition to the famous UNESCO World Heritage rock-hewn churches mentioned earlier. Since some of these locations are hidden and you’re unlikely to find them on Google Maps, it is advisable to hire a vehicle to get there and tour these locations with a guide (unless you prefer to hike or ride a mule, of course 🙂 ).

The following below are some temples worth checking out during your stay in Lalibela:

• Arbatu Ensessa: this church, located on the way to Yemrehanna Kristos, is believed to have been built in the year 518. Its name means ‘four beasts’ and refers to the evangelists John, Luke, Mark and Matthew.
• Ashetan Maryam (also referred to as Asheten Maryam, Asheton St. Maryam Monastery or አሽተን ቅድስት ማርያም ገዳም in Amharic): perched at 3150 meters high on Mount Abuna Yosef, this small monastery carved in a mountain overlooking Lalibela treasures beautiful relics. A special service takes place here on September 12th to mark a local celebration.
• Bilbila Chirkos: attributed to King Kaleb, this interesting church known for its ancient frescoes is believed to date from 523.
• Bilbila Giyorgis: also attributed to King Kaleb, its design is similar to the rock-hewn church of Bet Abba Libanos. According to popular belief, the bees living in the nearby hives produce a holy honey with healing properties.
• Geneta Maryam: supposedly built by Yekuno Amlak around 1270, this rectangular church famous for its 13th century paintings resembles Bet Medhane Alem in the UNESCO complex.
• Mekina Medane Alem: this remote church built under a protruding rock in a natural cave under the reign of Gebre Meskel in 537 is similar to Yemrehanna Kristos. Make sure to check out the beautiful frescoes depicting one-eyed lions.
• Na’akuto La’ab (also known as Nakutalab, Toneakutoleab Monastery, St. Neakuto Leab Monastery or ቅዱስ ነአኩቶ ለአብ ገዳም in Amharic): we visited this church with our guide on our way back to the Lalibela Airport. Built taking advantage of a natural cave, a friendly Orthodox monk proudly showed us some precious religious objects treasured here such as crosses, crowns or an elaborate Bible. To this day, some very old stone containers still collect the holy water that drips from the cave ceiling. Special services are held here on November 11th.
• Yemmerah Kristos (also spelled as Yemrehanna Kristos): what makes this church stand out is that is was built at the dramatic entry to a cave, not excavated in the rock. The stepped facade made of stone and wood, as well as the carving and the decoration are a remarkable example of Aksumite architecture. Mummified corpses can be found behind the church. Special services are held here on January 7th (marking Leddet, the equivalent of Ethiopian Christmas) and October 10th.

⛰️ Hike the mountains surrounding the city of Lalibela

The city of Lalibela is located in the northern Amhara region of Ethiopia. Surrounded by breathtaking scenery, trekking the nearby mountains during your stay is a great idea to get a better sense of the landscape and the rural life.

Experienced hikers might enjoy various daylong treks climbing the steep, demanding terrain in the area of Lasha or the Meket plateau, while beginners would feel more comfortable trekking around Gashena and the western part of the Meket plateau. Some recommended companies offering these services include Astounding Ethiopia Tours (ask for our local Lalibela guide called Tegegne; see more information under ‘ Travel tips for Lalibela / Hire a local guide’), Bale Mountains Tours (with our trusted guide Ahmed, who we met during our trip to the Omo Valley in southern Ethiopia), Highland Eco Trekking or Tesfa Tours.

Below I suggest three locations for outdoor excursions near Lalibela:

• Abuchagula Reserve: if you’re staying at Hudad Lalibela Eco-Lodge & Retreat on Mount Abuna Yosef or trekking near the area, there are a number of short walks that you can take to this reserve, which is home to large numbers of endemic fauna and flora and is one of the few remaining examples of thick wild vegetation.
• Mount Abuna Yosef: close to the eastern ledge of the Ethiopian Highlands known as Lasha, Abune Yusef is the third highest peak in the country, at 4300 meters above sea level. Although we stayed in a plateau and didn’t go all the way up during our second day in the city, the hike was relatively difficult due to the rocky terrain, but well worth the trip. Once we made it, we enjoyed a delicious lunch while we admired breathtaking views. In this area, you have good chances of spotting hordes of gelada baboons, hyraxes, birds or the highly endangered Ethiopian wolf. The Ashetan Maryam Monastery is located on a lower ridge of Mount Abuna Yosef. You can also check out the nearby Hudad Lalibela Eco-Lodge & Retreat, at 3300 meters above sea level, and opt to stay there overnight. Similarly, you will find small eco lodges or community guesthouses in the area.
• Mount Tabor: climb here to admire most of the Lalibela churches.

🛍️ Other activities in Lalibela

In addition to the cultural and outdoor activities, you may also devote some extra time to other occupations during your stay in the holy city of Lalibela, Ethiopia.

For example, you will find a museum displaying some religious artifacts next to the Lalibela Church Ticket Office. Although we visited it with our guide before heading to the famous UNESCO churches, I must say we weren’t impressed by the ‘museum’ at all since it was in an appalling condition and it was just a room. Apparently, the Lalibela Cultural Center is a better alternative, although I hear that it is now sadly permanently closed.

Another option is to go shopping. After hiking Mount Abuna Yosef, we bought a cool pair of jelly sandals in one of the many shabby stands around the busy city center of Lalibela. To be honest, we couldn’t resist because we had seen so many locals wearing them and they reminded me of some summer shoes I had as a kid. We actually used them a fair lot during the remainder of our Ethiopian trip! 🙂 Finally, during our last morning in Lalibela, we also bought some Orthodox crosses; I couldn’t think of a better place to purchase these religious objects than in this mystical city!

Other places to buy handicrafts and various souvenirs include the Fine Art Gallery, managed by local artist Tegegne Yirdaw, and the House of the Lalibela Artisans. The bustling Lalibela Saturday market, with colorful stalls along the road between the Lal and Roha Hotels, is a great option too.

Last but not least, you could visit the Lasta Tukuls, two storey round houses constructed of local red stone near the famous rock-hewn churches of Lalibela.

Where to eat Ethiopian food in Lalibela

Below you will find a list of places, be they bars or restaurants where we ate or that came recommended by my trusted Ethiopia & Djibouti guidebook by Lonely Planet, where you can try the famous Ethiopian food and drinks. Enjoy your meal!

• Ben Abeba: we had Bedele beers for sunset at this restaurant featuring spectacular views over the surrounding mountains of Lalibela. The architecture of this building is worth a stop too! The place also functions as a hotel at Ben Abeba Lodge & Tukul and is managed by a couple from Ethiopia and Scotland.
• John Cafeteria: centrally located cafe serving breakfast and Ethiopian cuisine.
• Seven Olives Hotel: the restaurant of this hotel is a popular dining option offering a mix of Ethiopian and European dishes. The fish (perch or tilapia) comes especially recommended.
• Sora Lodge Lalibela: upon arrival to Lalibela and during our first night in the city, we dined at our hotel restaurant. We truly enjoyed the food we ordered, namely potato and beetroot salad, chicken schnitzel -just pretending we were in Austria or Germany 🙂 -, and a Dashen beer.
• Torpido (Askalech) Tej House: we came here with our guide Tegegne and a friend of his to have some beers in this traditional ‘tej bet’ where Ethiopians gather to drink honey wine and enjoy live azmari music. A few steps aways lies a homonymous hotel (Torpedo Tej).
• Unique Restaurant: our experience here was definitely one of the highlights of our Ethiopian trip! We enjoyed an amazing Ethiopian cooking class with Sisko, the welcoming lady who owns this place that happens to be her house. We had a lot of fun learning how to cook injera and other traditional dishes with Sisko and her daughters. After cooking a delicious meal, we had dinner all together, our hosts fed us (it’s a sign of respect in the Ethiopian culture) and Sisko also performed the coffee ceremony (‘buna‘) for us. Immersing ourselves in a modest Ethiopian kitchen using charcoal cookstoves while we suffered its health impacts (red eyes and a runny nose caused by a deep smoke and poor ventilation) was a deeply humbling experience. Imagine the high rate of respiratory diseases and other health issues after cooking in those precarious conditions every single day of your life! We also enjoyed Sisko’s homemade food for lunch when we hiked to Mount Abuna Yosef earlier that day, as our guide had ordered some of her yummy pies filled with tomato, onions and spinach. 100% recommend!
• XO Lalibela: although this restaurant serves some Ethiopian food, it focuses mainly on European cuisine, including burgers, fajitas, paninis or roast chicken.

Best places to stay in Lalibela

When visiting the Ethiopian city of Lalibela, bear in mind that this is one of the most popular destinations in the country, not only for foreign tourists known as ´farenji´, but also for locals.

As a holy site for Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, the Lalibela churches draw large numbers of pilgrims, especially during some religious celebrations such as Leddet or Genna (taking place on January 7th), Timkat (on January 19th), and Fasika (marking Orthodox Easter). Take that into account and plan ahead of time when booking your stay in Lalibela!

Sora Lodge Lalibela

During our 3-day stay in this mystical Ethiopian city, we slept at the Sora Lodge Lalibela. We truly loved this 4-star hotel as it was both charming and featured gorgeous panoramic views over the Asheten Mariam Mountain, the valleys and the surrounding countryside villages. Our twin room was spacious and was also equipped with a bathroom and our own terrace.

Out of its 31 rooms, Sora Lodge Lalibela offers standard rooms (be they single, twin or double), rock-hewn rooms, tree houses or tukul rooms (the traditional Ethiopian huts).

The property also has a beautiful garden with shady trees and offers complimentary breakfast. We actually dined at the hotel restaurant on our first day and we enjoyed the food we ordered.

Last but not least, Sora Lodge Lalibela offers various services, including car rental, guided tours or massage and spa.

Other accommodation options in Lalibela

Based on my trusted Ethiopia & Djibouti guidebook by Lonely Planet, I listed below a few pensions or hotels sorted by price range that you might also consider booking while you’re visiting the fascinating city of Lalibela. Enjoy your stay!

• Cheap accommodation ($): Asheton Hotel, Torpedo Hotel.
• Medium-range hotels ($$): Alef Paradise Hotel, Ben Abeba Lodge & Tukul (their Ben Abeba restaurant overlooking the scenic landscape offers breathtaking views too!), Cliff Edge Hotel, Lal Hotel, Lalibela Hotel, Old Abyssinia Lodge (bungalows), Red Rock Lalibela Hotel, Selam Guest House, Tukul Village Hotel.
• Luxury hotels ($$$): Hotel Maribela, Hudad Lalibela Eco-Lodge & Retreat (sitting on a plateau at 3,300 meters above sea level; the final stretch must be attempted on foot or by mule), Mountain View Hotel.

In case you’d like to look for more accommodation options in Lalibela, you can always browse Airbnb or Booking.

Travel tips for Lalibela

Best time to visit Lalibela

Note that the best time to visit Lalibela is during the dry season, between October and March, when the weather is generally pleasant, with less rainfall and moderate temperatures. This is precisely when most Ethiopian festivals are celebrated, including Leddet or Genna on January 7th and Timkat on January 19th, which draw large numbers of pilgrims to the city.

As a reference, we traveled to Lalibela precisely at the end of March, when the dry season was about to finish. Unsurprisingly, we had nice weather throughout our 3-day stay indeed.

Hire a local guide

Even though you could visit Lalibela and its extraordinary UNESCO rock-hewn churches all by yourself, I highly recommend that you hire a local guide instead for a more authentic travel experience. The friend we were visiting in Addis Ababa put us in touch with Tegegne (from Astounding Ethiopia Tours), who was our guide during our 3-day stay in Lalibela. Needless to say, we adored him. He was really sweet and welcoming and took care of everything for us, from getting tickets to the cave churches and touring them with us, to booking tuk tuks to get us around and taking us to dinner or drinks with his friends. It was a truly memorable trip thanks to our dear Tegegne!

To give you an idea, the 3-day trip to Lalibela cost us around 300 USD per person, including:

• Accommodation at Sora Lodge Lalibela, a 4-star hotel (included under the item below).
• Local guide services comprising airport transfers, accommodation, tickets and tour of the Lalibela rock-hewn churches, hike to Mount Abuna Yosef and transportation around the city (200 USD).
• Round-trip domestic flight from Addis Ababa to Lalibela (86 USD).

How to get around Lalibela

Unless you want to spend hours in a bus or car on sinuous, bumpy roads, the easiest way to reach Lalibela is by air. Located in Girany Amba, some 20 kms southwest from the city, Lalibela Airport is very convenient if you visit this magical Ethiopian location. If you’re arriving from the capital of Addis Ababa, the trip to Lalibela is a short one-hour flight. You could also fly from Bahir Dar to Lalibela.

To get around the city of Lalibela, namely from our hotel to the rock-hewn churches, our guide Tegegne (see below) booked tuk tuks for us all. We even got to drive them ourselves for a bit on our way to the nearby mountain of Abuna Yosef, and it was so much fun! 🙂 In Ethiopia, these traditional three-wheeled vehicles known as ‘bajaj‘ are typically blue and white.

Travel precautions

A few months before traveling to Ethiopia, I suggest that you check with your home country’s travel advisories about the required vaccinations. Further, take all the necessary travel precautions, including getting health insurance or stocking up on medicines. For example, I carried anti-diarrheal tablets in my suitcase, and I’m glad I did as I had an upset stomach after our hike in Lalibela’s Mount Abuna Yosef!

For extra peace of mind, you can calculate how much you would pay for your health insurance with the SafetyWing widget below.

What to wear when visiting Lalibela

As mentioned earlier, when visiting the famous UNESCO Lalibela churches, bear in mind that they are places of worship. Hence, show respect by wearing appropriate clothing. Men are advised to wear long trousers and a shirt or T-shirt covering the shoulders, whereas for women, long shirts and dresses or trousers that cover the shoulders and knees are ideal. When entering religious sites such as churches, it is advised to also cover your hair.

And if you´ll be trekking the nearby Lalibela mountains as we did, make sure to plan accordingly. Below are some of the hiking products that I used during our outing. You can also check out my Decathlon affiliate profile to create your own look.

Lalibela map

For your ease of reference, below you will find a Lalibela map with all the spots mentioned throughout this blog post. Use it to plan your next trip!

How did you find this post about the mystical city of Lalibela and its famous rock-hewn churches that are considered a UNESCO World Heritage site? Was it helpful and / or inspiring? Feel free to leave your questions and comments below.

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In the meantime, safe travels around the world!

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