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Ethiopia

Ethiopia

Ethiopia is a vast and very diverse country located in the Horn of Africa bordering with Eritrea, Djibouti, Somalia, Kenya, Sudan and South Sudan.

Home to an ancient culture and dramatic landscapes, Ethiopians praise themselves in being the only African nation which wasn’t colonized (although Italy occupied the country for five years).

From the historic ruins in the North and the Lalibela churches carved in stone, to the fascinating tribes of the Omo Valley in the South, Ethiopia is a country with something for every kind of traveler, be it wildlife, nature or culture.

I had the chance to travel with friends throughout Ethiopia for a couple of weeks during March-April 2023 and it was such an incredible adventure! Keep on reading to learn more about this fascinating African destination.

WELCOME TO Ethiopia!

Basic facts

  • Population: 129 million (as of July 2024)
  • Currency: Ethiopian birr (ETB). Check the current exchange rate here.
  • Language: the country features five official languages (Amharic, Omoro, Afar, Tigrinya, and Somali). To give you an idea of its diversity, over 80 languages and 200 dialects are spoken throughout Ethiopia. For example, the Amharic language and writing, which derive from the Geʽez script, have their own alphabet. If you’ll be traveling around remote parts of the country, I suggest you hire a local travel guide to help you navigate situations on the ground and make your life easier. Read below for some Amharic words that might come in handy while traveling around Ethiopia. 🙂
  • Territories: the Federal Democratic Republic of Ethiopia is composed of 9 National Regional States (NRS) – Tigray, Afar, Amhara, Oromia, Somali, Benishangul-Gumuz, Southern Nations, Nationalities and Peoples Region (SNNPR), Gambella and Harari – and two administrative councils – Addis Ababa and Dire Dawa.
  • Main cities: Addis Ababa (capital), Dire Dawa, Mekele, Gondar, Bahir Dar.
  • Fun fact: did you know that the Danakil Depression located on Ethiopian soil is the lowest place on the African continent as well as the hottest place on Earth? The country is also the source of the Blue Nile.

Things to do

Visit the capital Addis Ababa

Explore the incredible rock-hewn churches in Lalibela

Discover the fascinating traditions of the Omo Valley tribes in southern Ethiopia

Go on safaris in the various national parks to spot wildlife

ETHIOPIAN FOOD

Ethiopians love eating injera (a sourdough spongy flatbread the size of a pizza pan that goes with pretty much anything you can think of, from sauces and stews to meat) every day. They do so by using their hands when sharing this traditional food from communal plates. Note that injera is made from a highly nutritious grain called teff, making this Ethiopian dish a true superfood and a very filling and healthy one indeed!

Because of religious observance, the Ethiopian cuisine is mainly vegan. Most of the times, you can find pasta in restaurants in case you feel like eating something ‘different’ (the most popular options are pasta beu atkilt – with vegetables – and pasta beu siga – with meat-; not quite like eating pasta in Italy, but they do the trick).

Also, be ready to drink lots of the famous Ethiopian coffee called buna! Considered as the birthplace of coffee, it should come as no surprise that drinking it is a deeply-rooted tradition among locals in Ethiopia. As a matter of fact, Ethiopians place high importance on their buna ritual, which is a traditional coffee ceremony to show respect and hospitality to family and friends. It always involves a female figure who first spreads fresh grass and flowers on the floor and table, before burning incense. While the aroma fills the room, she roasts, grinds and brews the coffee beans. Finally, the coffee is served in small cups (you’re normally expected to drink three of them), along with snacks such as ambasha (a sweet flatbread), bobolino (fried dough bread similar to a donut), kolo (roasted barley) or popcorn. As you can see, the buna coffee ritual is a great occasion to catch up with both loved ones and new acquaintances! And the traditional coffee pots made of clay are so cute, I actually bought one as a souvenir.

Last but not least, let’s cover some beloved national drinks. Spris would be the equivalent of smoothies, although healthier as they feature layered pureed fruit. You’ll find plenty of Ethiopian beers throughout the country too, the most popular brands being Anbessa, Bedele, Habesha, Harar or St George. Finally, the honey wine (known as tej) is another local’s favorite which sort of reminded me of cider back home in the Basque Country.

Traditional Ethiopian dishes

Asa: spicy fish, usually Nile perch.

Beyaynetu (also spelled bayenetu or beyainatu): it's a combination platter displaying various vegetarian options from curries and stews to vegetables. You will find this dish widely in the country, although it is typically served on Wednesdays and Fridays, when Orthodox Christians fast and abstain from eating animal products, or during Lent.

Chechebsa (also known as kita fir-fir): this breakfast dish consists of shredded injera flatbread, Berbere spice blend, onions, and a spiced clarified butter called niter kibbeh. It can also be served with honey and yoghurt.

Doro wat (also spelled as doro wot): spicy chicken stew, which also includes a boiled egg. Other versions of 'wat' -the Ethiopian equivalent of curry- include beg (sheep), bere (beef) or fiyel (goat) wat.

Gomen: a mix of collard green jazzed up with spices.

Kitfo: minced meat (usually beef), typically served raw.

Shiro: smooth and comforting stew made from powdered chickpeas or lentils, often mixed with minced onions, garlic, and Berbere spice.

Tibs: chunks of sautéed and stir-fried meat (be it beef, chicken, goat or lamb).

Good to know when travelling to Ethiopia

  • Amharic vocabulary: the following words might come in handy while you’re traveling throughout Ethiopia. Feel free to write them down, but note that given the broad diversity in terms of languages and dialects in the country, people will most probably have different words according to the region you’re visiting! Amaseganallahu (thank you), bajaj (rickshaw), baka (enough), buna (coffee), denane (how are you), farenji (foreigner), gobez (great), habesha (Ethiopian), hisab (check), ishi (OK or thanks), salamnu (hello), tinish (a little bit), tukul (hut).
  • Be careful on the road: when driving around the country, you might be shocked to see plenty of people and animals by the road, which can be dangerous, especially at night. Ethiopia is still highly rural and most people might be on their way to fetch water or to work in the field. Wave back to these smiling folks and enjoy!
  • Is Ethiopia safe, especially as a woman? As a woman traveling to the country, I got asked this question a lot. My answer is YES with some caveats. Traveling to Ethiopia can be challenging and requires careful preparation due to the country’s complex security situation (regional conflicts and civil unrest, for example). As a visitor, you should be vigilant at all times, avoid displaying signs of wealth, and refrain from walking alone, particularly after dark.
  • Religion: Ethiopia is a country with a rich and diverse religious landscape, including Christians (mainly Orthodox), Muslim, Jews and traditional indigenous African religions. These religions coexist, and Ethiopia is known for its religious tolerance and diversity.

More about Ethiopia…

Get inspired by my trips around the country and read my travel-related blog posts!

And even better, listen to my Ethiopia playlist on Spotify while you do so to feel like you´re literally there. 🙂

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